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A commonly asked question here in Hippo land is "How do I put beautiful antique hardware on my modern doors?" To support antique hardware lovers everywhere, we'd like to offer you a step by step guide to replacing your unwanted modern hardware with stunning antiques!
What you'll need:
1) A tube latch with face plate and strike (1)
2) Door plates (2)
3) Doorknobs (2)
Step 1: Take off all your existing hardware.
We're assuming at this stage that you have something that looks kinda like this:
How to disassemble is different for most manufacturers. Usually you need to look for some kind of 'pin' or set screw in the shaft of the doorknob to start. Some have an actual screw, some have a thin wire that needs to be pressed down, and some have a small hole that needs to be depressed with a screw driver. Some of them are really not very obvious and you might need to google search some instructions based on your knobs.
At the end, you should have a naked door that looks like this:
(Note - it's more likely the large center hole does not have divet in the back. This will be of no importance either way)
Step 2: Install a Tube Latch
First we start with a reproduction tube latch. A new tube latch will get you all these parts: A tube latch body, a face plate, a plastic spacer, and a strike plate. The pin won't be needed! Antique tube latches are also great and normally have a face plate already integrated.
The bonus of the separate face plate is the plunger can rotate to either side before securing the face plate, allowing the door to swing either way. Some antique tube latches can also rotate the plunger, but usually require opening them up. It's a great thing to explore if you're adventurous- but be careful to not lose parts and take a picture of the guts before you start pulling things out!
First, we take the black spacer and put it into the hole. This part will keep your tube latch aligned in the center of the hole:
Next, put the tube latch through the hole in the narrow edge of the door and through the space, like this:
Now you can rotate the plunger so the face of the plunger slopes towards the jamb of the door, or to where the strike will be. Think of it like if you threw the door closed behind you, you'd want the latch to hit the strike and slide up it until the door clicked closed. Once you have the plunger facing the correct direction, put the face plate over and screw it down:
Now is a great time to replace the strike if you need to. Make sure the latch lines up with the hole in the strike. You may already have a perfectly serviceable strike from your previous hardware.
Step 3: Install your plates
Next come the plates. Here is the biggest limitation when you have the large 2 1/8" hole - it's too wide for many antique plates to cover. It could be drastic like this guy:
Or less noticeable but still peaking out like this one:
Rosettes can be some of the trickiest because it looks like a perfect fit... until you realize that the screw holes are over the hole too and there's no easy way to attach it (we really don't recommend glue). There are tricky ways around this if you want to get long machine screws but it's a bit of work.
As long as the plate can attach to the door, the gap is aesthetic. If it doesn't bother you, there's nothing to stop you from using a plate that's too small to cover the hole. Most our customers don't like it and end up looking for a plate that is:
a) wide enough
b) has the screw holes over the wood to attach
A third option are reproduction rosettes that screw together. They're nice because you can get the antique rosette size without having to fill your door:
Yet another option are these reproduction rosettes that are an impressive 3" in diameter, leaving enough space to screw them directly into the wood:
For our example, we will use a lovely original 1915 craftsman door plate. The plate should be lined up with the hole in the plate for the doorknob over the hole in the latch:
and a detail of the alignment:
We normally wait to screw in the plate until the knobs have been installed. That way you can make sure the knobs are moving completely freely before screwing the plates down. The knobs are frequently snugly nested into the plate so even a slight lift or lower of the plate can cause the knobs to rub.
Step 4: Install Doorknobs
Next it's time for the knobs. Really, you can use any antique knobs with a spindle that you'd like. For this example, we're going to use a classic 1920's pair of octagonal glass knobs with a threaded spindle:
Take off one knob from the spindle which will involved loosening or removing the set screw in the collar and unscrewing it from the spindle. (Note - a straight shaft (non-threaded) knob set will also work but will come apart differently.)
Take the knob with the spindle attached and slide it through the door - both plates and the tube latch.
It's nice for alignment when the knobs nest into the plate bezel, like this:
It's not strictly necessary. Your knob can sit on top of the plate bezel but it's how the pieces were intended to function and it keeps the knobs from wobbling.
Once the first knob is through, re-attach the second knob so that it fits snugly but still moves freely. With threaded knobs, you'll have to experiment with the right placement although be sure to avoid putting the set screw down on the corner of the spindle. It will likely give way pretty quickly and your knob will start slipping. For straight shaft knobs, getting spacing right will usually involved getting actual spacers as the knobs are in fixed locations on the spindle.
Step 5: Screw Door Plates in Place
Once everything's in the right spot, make sure the knobs are sitting exactly perpendicular to the door and screw down the plates! All finished and looking good my friend!
But what about the innovation that wasn’t absorbed into the main stream manufacturing? Well, this brings us to the tale of the Niles Chicago hardware.
Milton Cleveland Niles, a farmer with some bright ideas, and his son Sidney, implemented a new lock and doorknob design in 1878. Niles and Son began producing the design in 1979 and became the Gray Iron Company in 1880. The Niles Chicago hardware differs from the more common threaded knob and spindle hardware in one major way; the spindle and knob are integrated.
Each knob is attached to an oversized "integrated" spindle. The spindle has a knuckle on it that, when fit into the mortise and turned, will open the latch. The Niles Chicago mortises themselves are unusual, featuring a larger hole and with a bar separating the two halves for each knob to snap into place.
The knobs move independently of one another, a slick departure from threaded spindle kits.
The major advantage of this design is the impeccable fit. There is no need for set screws or washers, no loose and rattling knobs, no stripped knobs from loose spindles, and perfect fits for the escutcheons. Also, the Niles Chicago knobs can be found in popular patterns, materials, and finishes of the time, such as the Le Grande and Corinthian patterns. Niles Chicago also made glass knobs, very cutting edge for the time!
I would LOVE to eliminate the rattling and twisting of the doorknobs and spindles in my house by using all Niles Chicago hardware, but it’s not quite that simple. Niles Chicago is hard to find because it was produced for only a short while.
The Chicago Hardware Manufacturing Company became the Gray Iron Company in 1882, and after 1888 the Niles Chicago design was seen less and less. The design, while superior in some ways, was also created in the middle of a design boom, and other more standard designs won out in popularity. Also, while there are less parts to replace and adjust on the Niles Chicago design, that also means that when a part fails, there is no easy fix. That aspect shortens the life of the hardware significantly.
It still leads us to wonder, what place would Niles Chicago have in antique hardware today if it was more wide spread? Would our door knobs jingle less? Would the design of more modern hardware have seen different and more advanced designs today? Would we just have 2 minutes more each day to snuggle our cats because we got to spend less time jiggling loose door knobs?
Hard to say. But Niles Chicago hardware, despite it's scarcity, is a great part of antique hardware history. And sometimes the good die young.
Additional Reading about Niles Chicago Hardware:
We'd like to take a minute here and highlight our amazing lighting shop. Our shop has daily adventures with all the wacky antique lighting we restore and rewire. It's not uncommon to head back there and hear the grinding wheel, drill press, and and polishing wheel all whirring away.
Not only do we wire our own fixtures, we take in repairs! That can mean everything from someone's favorite chandelier to some really wacky ideas- a blend? a mailslot? a ship's wheel? Sure thing!
Here are some chandeliers in the shop's ante-room. Sort of like a waiting area for light fixtures:
Here is an overview of the shop:
Here is a chandelier in progress (the shop gentlemen are tender sorts and did not volunteer to be photographed. I was, however, able to convince one to keep his hand in the picture):
And lastly our vice-on-a-post. It's really quite handy:
Need something rewired? Bring it in! Afraid of antique lighting because you want to make sure it's safe, rewired, and able to be hung by an electrician? We've got you covered!
Do you have any stories to share about adventures rewiring light fixtures? Share them in the comments!
Thorson, the 1895 wooden rimmed, skip tooth bicycle hangs over the Plumbing Department in Hippo Hardware, was the first thing I connected to here at Hippo. I have a deep interest in bicycles so this was the first antique that really caught my eye!
One of the ways that I have previously understood history is through the design and manufacturing of bicycles.
So, as I was admiring Thorson one day, I thought it would be interesting to trace the history of bicycles along side the production of hardware. Below I will trace the key historical developments of bicycles along side hardware to give a bigger picture of American industry.
The 1890's
Bicycles:
Picture this: Chicago, 1895. The bicycle had been being produced in America since the 1870's. In 1895 there were over 75 manufactures of bicycles in Chicago's "Prairie District." Most of them closed within the year. A few remained open such as Western Wheel Works, and Arnold Schwinn's bicycle manufacturing, which made bicycles in the U.S. through the 70's.
Our friend from the ceiling's manufacturer, The Thorson Cycling Company, didn't make the cut. However, Thorson dons many of the contemporary trends of the time. Before the modern day bush-roller (roller) chain, was the "Humber" or block chain.
Instead of having a pin that goes through bushings, this chain uses a "block" of metal that rotates around the pin plate. Also the skip tooth 1/4" diameter chain ring was the major trend in chains and gears. Previous to chains, bicycles were driven by rods, belts, or direct drive front wheels.
Like hardware, the bicycle was created in Europe. Most developments were made in England, France, and Italy and eventually imported to the U.S.
Hardware:
1895 was the heart of the Victorian era, more specifically Period Revival and Queen Anne. Ornate stamped brass, bronze and cast iron in famous patterns such as the "Windsor", "Roanoke", and "Ceylon". And many countless other patterns which are lesser known. Pictured below are a set of stamped brass Roanoke Doorknobs.
As with bicycles, certain manufactures marked the ages and carried production well into the 20th century. Sargent, one of the biggest producers of Victorian hardware, made strong beautiful latches, pulls, door knobs and other items. Other companies gaining momentum at this time were Corbin, Yale, Chicago, and Standard Plumbing.
1930's (a bit of a fast forward)
Bicycles:
Almost all bicycles sold in the U.S. in this era were made in the U.S. The Humber chain was still used, mostly by track racers, and the roller chain was now most common on bicycles produced for leisure riding. At this time in the U.S. cars outsold bicycles 10 to 1, so most bicycles were ridden by teenagers who could not yet drive. However, in Europe, bicycle manufacturing and component design was booming.
The Schwinn & Company, determined that the American public would go wild about bicycles with the right approach, created "light weight" models equipped with multiple gears! Predating the modern day derailleur was the internally geared hub. These hubs had 2 speeds and a coaster, or back pedal, brake. The New Departure was the the first widely sold multi-speed hub, and an important stepping stone to the modern day derailleur, which, today, goes up to 11 speeds on the rear wheel!
Still a skip tooth!
(Note: The first derailleurs were actually designed in France in the 1890's.)
Hardware:
This is the begin of the "Modern" era. Art Deco for everyone! Hardware began changing, mostly around door hardware and latch and spring designs. The old mortise style latch was overshadowed by the new "tube latch."
The depression had left it's mark. Mortise locks, with intricate internal springs and latches, and mostly brass plates, were left behind for cheaper plated steel tube latches that used a lot less materials to produce. The Schlage company revolutionized door hardware by drilling out doors to fit tube latches instead of mortises. Dexter, Skillman, and Norwalk were the companies whose names were sought after in the 30's and 40's.
While bicycle sales were dwindling, having ebbed by 1905, hardware was still needed, used, and aesthetically relevant. The ringed or circle patterns are a hallmark of the Deco era and seen on these Deco Doorknobs shown below are still considered classic celebrated today!
1950's
Bicycles:
Bicycles were still slow selling in the U.S. market, there was a small increase in bicycle sales after soldiers returned from war, and imported some Raleighs, but mostly bicycles were still bought and ridden by teenagers. The Schwinn company would not give up so easily. In Europe, technological advancement in components was booming. Schwinn put out the World Traveller, a touring bike with a Sturmey-Archer (British) 3 speed hub, lights, rack, the works!
And, because racing was popular in Europe and Japan, the Paramount racing bicycle. This bicycle came as a single speed or a 3 speed internal hub, but derailleurs were about to make their mark from across both the Atlantic and the Pacific...
That's once good lookin' bike!
The automobile industry and rocket craze of the time influenced aesthetic of bicycles.
The Schwinn Panther melded the curves of the 1950's idyllic rocket and the contours of the Bel Air.
Hardware:
The influence of car and rocket design did not go unnoticed by the hardware designers of the time.
Known at the "Mid-Century Modern" ear, this was an era of satin bronze. An era where chrome left the bathroom and made it to the kitchen, and beyond! Some of the more established companies, such as Corbin and Sargent, were struggling with the changes of style of the time. Weiser invented Kwikset which quickly became the industry standard. Easy to key, easy to install, and cheap to produce, the other companies couldn't keep up. Other companies to dominate the 50's were Hollymade and National which still produce today.
The Deco Style of the 30's was present at the beginning of the decade, and progressed to a more chunky application of chrome, bronze, and the Deco lines. The example shown below highlights the straight lines and hard angles common in an Art Deco Kitchen Set while below we see a shift to the more rounded lines and mis-matches finishes more common in the late 1950's.
Times were a-changin'!
1960's and 1970's
Bicycles:
The 1960's and 1970's were the greatest bicycle boom in America. Bicycle sales shot up as the 10 speed became all the rage. Our friend Thorton's skip tooth chain and single speed was a thing of the past. We now had 10 gears, modern derailleurs, and a 3/16" chain. Bicycling for recreation, family past times, and competitive racing finally caught up the trends in Europe, popularity of European frames and components.
Simplex was the leading producer of low end derailleurs, and Campagnolo the leader in high end parts, as they still are today. Shimano was producing quality parts as well, and grew to lead the industry in engineering and technology.
Schwinn was given a run for their money as bikes were shipped from Europe. Brands such as Bianchi, Puegot, Raleigh, and Motobecane became regular household names. The demand of the bicycle lead manufacturers to produce on a larger scale. Competition for top designs continued to push the industry to higher standards. The 1960's and 70's were the era of mass production.
Hardware:
Companies were growing, the economy was booming, factories were multiplying, and production was cheap. Weiser continued to be a top producer of hardware, and Westlock also came into popularity. Parts were smaller, and cheaper than ever before, so the cost of servicing parts quickly out weighed the cost. Disposable hardware became the norm and continued. The 1960's and 70's focused on engineering finishes, and continuing to come up with cheap parts for changing aesthetics.
I hope this was a fun and informative jaunt through early ages of hardware, bicycle and production. It was certainly educational for me! What do you think, dear readers? Would you rather have a bicycle of yesteryear or are you in love will all the new technology?
We see a lot of glass door knobs here at the Hippo Hardware. Not only in terms of style, but age as well. Glass doorknobs were produced widely for over 50 years! Although the glass part of the knob is the flash and style, a big trick to dating them is in the metal base. The subtle design choices can tell you the difference between a 1900 door knob and a 1940's doorknob. These can then tell you are sorts of useful things like "Are these original to my house?" or "are these knobs are from the same set?".
Below is a brief walk through by era:
1890's - The Originals
These were super rare and cutting edge at the time. We like to throw around the term 'mansion-ware' here for stuff like this - only owned by the very wealthy of the time (thus not a lot made). Some glass hardware already existed, notably cabinet knobs, but nothing in the way of door knobs. These knobs feature a very wide base with steps up to the glass. The knobs are frequently if not exclusively pinned (not like your girl in the 1950's but like a brass nail running through the base to attach the knob to the spindle). This has the plus side of being very secure and the downside of being very hard to remove. These knobs are most easily distinguished by their base. The glass came in hexagonal, round, and even some more unusual shapes such as egg shaped or faceted spheres.
Octagonal glass doorknob with wide, stepped base. Pin secures knob to the spindle.
1900's - The Up and Coming
Here we see glass knobs become a little more mainstream but still not much outside of the upper class. This era, again not widely produced, features the more narrow (and familiar) base like but maintains the straight shaft (meaning not threaded, as will become very common later). An easy way to note these knobs is the narrow base without threads (requiring a user to screw directly into the spindle instead of threading a screw through the base). These door knobs also came in a wide variety of glass shapes, although what we see most often are octagonal, shown here.
Octagonal glass slip on door knob
1910's - Breaking into the Mainstream
The first twist-on door knob came out right about 1915, give or take a few years. The twist on style revolutionized all door knobs at the time, glass and otherwise. Instead of needing lots of tiny washers to get your knobs the correct width apart for your door, you could just screw down your knob and tighten the set screw - Voila! Modern magic. These first glass twist-on door knobs feature the same heavy cast brass bases, but instead of a smooth square, are round and threaded inside. See below for a great example: a twist on glass egg doorknob, a fantastic carved glass octagonal doorknob, and a very unusual hollow glass knob filled with mercury. Some additional clues here are the convex style (rounded top instead of a cut face) tend to be from this era.
Carved octagonal glass knob
Mercury glass doorknob with a twist-on base
1920's - Everybody Loves Me
It was really the 1920's that saw glass door knobs in a huge percentage of homes. They became affordable and accessible and boy did those homeowners love 'em. Here we see the twist on style base with the with the heavy cast brass but the glass is generally a more standardized shape - octagonal with a cut face or fluted.
Although they weren't common, Schlage patented and produced the first integrated knobset in the mid-1920's. These were new technology at the time and took another 30 years to really catch on.
At hippo, this is generally the beginning of where our stock goes from the specialty case to the beautifully mounded bins. A lot of the really great novelty colors (green, amber, blue), such as these great black glass knobs, were produced in this era.
1920's black glass octagonal doorknob
1930's - Keep On Keeping On
Glass doorknobs continued to be wildly popular, so much so that we really see the 'budget' versions getting big. Fluted style really overtakes the octagonal in popularity in the 1930's but both are still widely used. Although we don't have an exact date on when they started, something called 'contractor grade' aka 'super cheap' becomes much more common.
Additionally, as they become more wide spread, bases tend to move from cast brass to stamped brass over iron (like these guys - a fluted glass doorknob with a stamped brass base) or sometimes even stamped steel over iron. Additionally, this is really when we see all those unusual, creative glass shapes all but disappear. There were still outliers, but they become rare. Glass knobs had become more common in less affluent homes although were generally a step up from the plain steel knobs generally seen in working class homes of the time.
1940's - The Wave Has Crested
We finally start to see a small decline in glass knobs - octagonal fading much more quickly than fluted. Although they're still widely produced, they are beginning to lose their grip. Here we also get to see the beginning of the shift of the type of doorknobs you'd find at a new hardware store - the large drill outs and integrated latch. These knobs were produced in the 1940's through the early 1950's. We also see what we affectionately think of as the 'squashed' glass knob made by Dexter - a slightly squatter version of the fluted and round glass knob.
1950's - Time to Move On
Glass doorknobs were really on their way out by this point, having completed the cycle of rare elite to mass consumption to out of style.
1960s to Now - Reproductions
That certainly doesn't mean glass knobs weren't still made. Now, instead, the focus was on reproductions or restoration. Anything with a pot metal or ZMAC base is certainly in this category (such as these fluted glass knobs). Also a set screw with anything other than a slotted head screw is another dead giveway as a production. There are also higher end reproductions with cast brass bases (such as these octagonal glass reproductions here)
Reproduction fluted glass doorknobs
Reproduction octagonal glass doorknobs
Share any tips or tricks you may have in caring for, restoring, or replacing your glass doorknobs in the comments!
We love finding new ways to use old objects that aren't in demand anymore for their original purpose. As we launch into the holiday season, here are a few fun ideas on how to decorate and celebrate.
1) Get a Key for Santa
We have a bunch of great old keys. When some inquiring minds want to know exactly how Santa will get into the house, some parents have started leaving a key for Santa (gingerly side-stepping the whole Is-Santa-a-Burgler question). We have lots in our store and even a few online to choose from (like this awesome folding key shown below as well as a 'hippo-picks' large sized skeleton key).
2) Hang a Repurposed Wreath
We have awesomely crafty customers who build beautiful wreaths out of all kinds of things. We've had customers use metal faucet handles, door plates, door knobs, assorted light fixture parts, really you name it. Here's an awesome example we found of a wreath made of old tools! (We have some of those in our basement, btw!)
3) Vintage Windows Turned into Picture Frames
Who doesn't like seeing the beautiful faces of their loved ones all in one place? Antique window picture frames are great for decorations or holiday gifts. Our Architecture department stocks a wide variety of old windows perfect for the task.
Happy Holidays everyone!
This is the first post in a series called "A Few Of My Favorite Things" attempting to instill the magic of the sound of music as an individual Hippo employee waltzes you through their favorite objects in the store right now. These items may or may not be for sale online, but they are all available for purchase.
Morgan: One of my favorite things about working here is all the cool stuff I get to see. Not only do I own an old house, but I genuinely just like all this stuff. My taste skews pre-1940's. Modern's never been much of my bag but I can really get behind some good deco, Nouveau, Eastlake Victorian, and sometimes arts and crafts when it doesn't make me feel like I'm in a dungeon.
So, to begin, I'm really into this set of door hardware.
The knobs are deeply cast and the plates are just as burly with rich nouveau style. The pattern is called "Vendome" - Mm!
Next, a lovely set of three Deco shades. The bright color feels crisp and warm while the very round, squat shape reminds me of fruit.
Summertime makes me think of outside decorating. I love using these old parts and pieces to accent or even trellis my plants. In cases where I'm worried about rust, I've scrubbed them down with WD40, sanded them, and coated them with some good old rustolium.
Then there's this beauty. This soap dish really caught my attention for the curved lines and the really heavy quality cast. The finish is also in amazing shape. I'm a big nickel fan in bathrooms.
Lastly, is this really charming mission pendant fixture. The style is clean while showing off the deep green and opalescent orange glass. The light it throws is perfect for a hallway or exterior space.
That's it for now! What are your favorite salvage finds this summer?
It's hot here at Hippo. Real hot. But does that get us down? No sir. What do we do then, to survive the heat? We strike a pose in our amazing t-shirts hats (now available online! Click here for t-shirts and here for hats)
<cue Madonna>.
Available online are our fantastic Hippo hats (available in tan and black) and t-shirt (available in blue, grey, and yellow). We have a wide variety of sizes and if you don't see the size/color combination you need, just give us a call or email. We have them printed in small batches and can almost always accommodate requests.
And for us, we'll be prancing on the sidewalks until it gets too hot and then we may be closing early to get ourselves cooled down.
We hope everyone gets to have a fun 4th tomorrow. We will be out celebrating tomorrow and closed for business. Happy 4th of July and here's to some bright fireworks in the city and some bright stars to those lucky enough to make it out camping.
Our newest staff member volunteered to write a blog post and chose to share what it's like to join the Hippo-verse:
I am the newest addition to Hippo Hardware, and let me be the first to admit, it’s overwhelming! The never-ending inventory of super cool is jaw dropping. I’m caught repeatedly hypnotized in the spinning dazzle of yester-year whatevers too often, to the point of literally needing to keep my head down in order to stay on task. I’ve been a member of the lighting department since the beginning of this year. A series of serendipitous events has me exploiting a more electric side. My background is scattered with fifteen years or so in the home restoration business, and while several avenues have led me to develop artistically, my foundation is firm in the world of “I’ll need to look at it, but I think we can fix it.” Seems there was a little hole in Hippo’s repertoire that was carved just for me.
If you are looking for any fix it for your home, save yourself the headache of wasted time and under experienced staff, come here first. If we don’t have what you need we will know where to point you next, if there is a direction to follow… There are strong men, at the ready, to lift and load any claw foot, light fixture, door, or mantel. There’s a revolving crew of ring master stand-ins, Steve Miller being the one and only original, all at the ready for an on the spot stand up and well thought how to DIY. Every department has a magic of it’s own with the third floor shining spot lights, chandeliers, sconces, floor-table-desk lamps, and sputniks ready to take off in a rainbow show. Come one, come all into the labyrinth of stairs and ramps.
A Brief Introduction:
Let's start with Plumbing
Now, our Lighting department:
And then there's Architecture:
Last but not least, Hardware:
So in conclusion:
A frequent question we get asked here at Hippo isn't so much a question as a look of panic and frustration. People come in holding lovely glass door knobs in their hands telling woeful tales of friends stuck in the bathroom or spouses trapped in the garage. They say their knobs are broken and they need a new set.
Octagonal and fluted (occasionally round or rarely other unusual shapes) glass door knobs are common throughout Portland as well as buildings from the 1920's - 1940's. And eventually, they fail. It's a remarkably elegant failure because the solution is fairly simple. Below we'll walk through the most common type of failure and how you can fix it rather than buy new knobs.
Step 0 (aka the problem) - Your knob spins or falls off in your hand
If your door knob just spins when you try to turn it or even 'skip's when you're turning, chances are your threads have worn out. Commonly, they either simply wear down completely
or the pressure of the steel will carve out a square shape where there should be a circle:
Before we dive in, there are other common problems that may cause your knob to spin or fall off though, so let's rule out a couple other scenarios first.
Scenario A) Your set screw is just loose. Find your set screw in the 'collar' or base of your knob, make sure it's sitting on the face of your spindle (not on a corner). To check, take out your set screw and look through the hole. If you see a corner, twist the knob a little further. Otherwise, tighten down the set screw and check to see if your knob still spins. If not, then you're already done! Victory lap!
Scenario B) Your door knob's glass has come loose from the collar. To test this, hold the collar, or base, of the knob, and see if the glass spins independently. If so, this will require some MacGuyvering with super glue (we recommend the super runny xylene based kind to really get in there and twisting the glass part around while it's wet to get all the crannies) or possibly just replacement.
Assuming neither scenario is true, let's move on to step 1:
Step 1 - Take both knobs off the spindle
This can be accomplished by unscrewing both set screws, unscrewing your knobs from the spindle.
(Tip: You won't need your set screws anymore, but if you have a whole house of the same knobs, we'd recommend keeping these little guys around because if one gets lost, they can be difficult to replace.)
When you look in your knob's collar, it will probably look torn up, flattened, and mostly square instead of mostly round. This is another good indicator that your threads have done their duty and are no longer functional.
Step 2 - Acquire a new spindle
The easiest way to do that at Hippo is to bring in your knobs. If your threads are damaged enough, you can use a spindle with no threads, and only straight tapped holes. However, most of the time it's easier to use a spindle with both thread and straight tapped holes. This way, the knob will screw on so you don't have to battle the remaining thread.
Most knobs fit on a 20 thread spindle but some do not. If you come into Hippo, we can trouble shoot with you in person. If you can't bring it in here, you can take your knob or spindle to a local hardware store and find out the thread.
We sell offer a 'spindle kit' which includes the spindle, two set screws, and 6 washers. Spindle kits can be purchased here (Note we have some updated information on spindle kits - read more about them here)
f you purchase your spindle elsewhere, make sure you also get two straight tapped screws which will screw directly into the spindle, and many small washers that you will use as needed to keep the knobs from sliding back and forth in your door.
Step 3 - Attach one knob to the end of the spindle
Screw on knob onto the spindle and keep screwing until you get as far down as possible and have the set screw hole over the hole in the spindle. It's easiest to screw it down as far as possible and then back up the nearest hole. Screw in the new set screw (through the knob, into the spindle). Your knob should feel tightly attached to the spindle.
Step 4 - Put the spindle through the door
Assuming your door, latching mechanism, and plates are still attached (if not, attach them now), put one or two washers on the spindle and slide them down to the base of the door knob. This is an estimate and will likely need to be tested and changed a few times to get it right. If, even with all six washers, the spindles are still too long for your door we suggest you cut down your spindle instead of continuing to stack washers.
These washers should nestle between the base of the knob and your door plate. Then push the spindle through your door.
Step 5 - Attach the second knob
Now, place one or two washers on the end of the spindle poking through the door. Again, use your best guess as to how many washers you will need based on the length of the spindle and the depth of your door plus plates.
Install the other door knob, following the same tactic of screwing down as far as possible and then backing up to the nearest spindle hole. From this point, you can see where your knobs will sit and if your washers are correctly placed. If you need to add or remove washers, now is a good time to do so.
Once your washers are set, screw down the second knob, screw in the set screw, and voila! Your beautiful original door knobs once again are working like champs! Victory lap!
